Guide · 11 September 2026 · 8 min read
Which webcam should you use for Autodarts?
Cameras are where an Autodarts setup is won or lost. The software can only score what it can see, and the single most common cause of "Autodarts is inaccurate" is a camera that was chosen on the wrong specification — usually the one printed largest on the box.
The good news is that the requirements are narrow, well documented and cheap to meet. You are not looking for the best webcam; you are looking for a fairly specific and rather boring one, three times over.
The five things that actually matter
Autodarts publishes its own camera criteria in the platform’s DIY documentation, and they are worth reading before you spend anything. Condensed, a camera suits Autodarts if it meets these:
- ✓Field of view between 80° and 110° — wide enough to see the whole board from close in, narrow enough not to warp it
- ✓A lens with no distortion, or as little as possible
- ✓A stable frame rate around 30 FPS — stability matters more than the number
- ✓Low power consumption, because three cameras share one computer’s USB budget
- ✓The shortest cable that reaches — long USB runs are a common source of trouble
Why more megapixels will not help you
This is the counterintuitive one, and it is the reason most people buy the wrong camera. Autodarts’ own documentation states that the most common working resolutions are between 640×480 and 1280×720, and that higher resolutions "seem to have no effect on accuracy".
That is worth sitting with for a moment, because it inverts how everyone shops for webcams. A 4K camera is not a better Autodarts camera. It costs more, it consumes more USB bandwidth and more power, it gives the detector more pixels to chew through — and it does not tell the software anything it did not already know about where your dart landed.
What actually decides whether a marginal call goes right is geometry and optics: where the camera sits, whether the whole board is in frame, whether the lens is sharp and undistorted, and whether the light is even. Resolution is far down that list.
Autofocus: probably not
An Autodarts camera stares at the same fixed object, from the same fixed position, forever. That is the one situation in which autofocus has nothing to offer and something to lose — a lens that re-hunts focus because someone walked past, or because the light changed when the ring came on, is introducing variation into a system whose whole job is detecting change.
Focus each camera once, by hand, against something with hard edges — a page of printed text held at the board is the classic trick — and then never touch it again. Our accuracy guide covers the full routine. If a camera you like happens to have autofocus, it is not disqualifying; just be aware it is solving a problem you do not have.
The cameras the community has already proven
Rather than guess, it is worth starting from the shortlist Autodarts maintains from community experience. Three models come up repeatedly, and the platform’s documentation notes that none of them need manual distortion correction:
- ✓All three sit inside the 80–110° field-of-view window
- ✓None requires manual distortion calibration, per the platform’s own documentation
- ✓Note the ELP’s manual settings — fixed exposure is an advantage, not a limitation, for a camera that never moves
| Camera | Field of view | Distortion | Overexposure | Settings | Autofocus |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ELP OTG HD 5mp | 100° | None | None | Manual | No |
| MOERTEK (MC 920) | 85° | Nearly none | No | Auto | Yes |
| OV9732 | 100° | Little | None | Auto | No |
The USB problem nobody warns you about
Three cameras streaming at once is a bandwidth and power problem before it is a camera problem, and it is the single most common reason a setup that "should work" does not. Autodarts’ minimum requirements ask for three USB ports across at least two separate USB buses — not simply three holes in the side of the machine.
That distinction catches people out constantly. Many small laptops and cheap mini PCs put every port on one internal controller, so three cameras contend for one bus and you get dropped frames, cameras that vanish mid-leg, or a board manager that only ever sees two of them. Nothing about that looks like a USB problem when it happens; it looks like broken software.
Power is the other half. A USB 2.0 port budgets 2.5W and a USB 3.0 port 4.5W, and three cameras plus cable losses can push a weak host past what it will deliver. If cameras behave individually but misbehave together, a powered USB hub is the standard fix and costs very little.
| USB standard | Voltage | Current | Power per port |
|---|---|---|---|
| USB 1.0 / 1.1 | 5V | 100mA | 0.5W |
| USB 2.0 | 5V | 500mA | 2.5W |
| USB 3.0 / 3.1 | 5V | 900mA | 4.5W |
Distortion matters less than it used to
Older advice about Autodarts makes a great deal of lens distortion, and there is a whole chessboard-calibration routine documented for correcting it. It is worth knowing that this became much less of a concern: the platform’s documentation states that from software version 0.24.0 onwards the algorithm accounts for lens distortion itself, so manual distortion calibration is no longer something most people need to do.
It still pays to buy a lens that is close to undistorted — starting from a good image beats correcting a bad one — but if you have been putting off building a setup because the distortion step looked daunting, that step has largely gone away.
Where we fit
You can absolutely do all of this yourself, and if you enjoy the research it is genuinely cheaper. What we sell is the other option: our light ring bundle at £149.99 arrives with the cameras already chosen against the criteria above, mounts printed to fit the ring, and the whole assembly bench-tested on a real board before it is boxed.
If you already own a compatible light ring, the mount kits at £139.99 include cameras too, so you keep the lighting you have already paid for.
We are not going to pretend a camera is magic. The value is that somebody has already made the boring decisions, checked they work together on an actual dartboard, and will get on a call with you if they do not.
- What webcam is best for Autodarts?
- There is no single best one, but there is a narrow specification: a field of view between 80° and 110°, little or no lens distortion, a stable frame rate around 30 FPS, low power draw and a short cable. Autodarts maintains a community shortlist that repeatedly features the ELP OTG HD 5mp, the MOERTEK MC 920 and the OV9732, none of which need manual distortion correction.
- Do you need a 4K or high-resolution webcam for Autodarts?
- No. Autodarts’ own documentation says the most common working resolutions are between 640×480 and 1280×720, and that higher resolutions seem to have no effect on accuracy. A higher-resolution camera costs more, uses more USB bandwidth and more power, and tells the detector nothing extra about where your dart landed.
- What field of view do Autodarts cameras need?
- Between 80° and 110°. Narrower than that and a camera mounted close to the board cannot see all of it; wider and the image warps enough to work against you. Many cameras allow the lens to be swapped afterwards if the field of view is wrong.
- How many cameras does an Autodarts setup need?
- Three, spaced roughly 120 degrees apart around the board. The three viewpoints are what let the software triangulate where a dart landed, which is also why a single phone camera has a harder geometric problem to solve.
- Why do my Autodarts cameras keep dropping out?
- Usually USB rather than the cameras. Autodarts asks for three USB ports across at least two separate buses, and many laptops and cheap mini PCs put every port on one internal controller, so three streams contend for one bus. Power is the other cause: a USB 2.0 port budgets 2.5W and a USB 3.0 port 4.5W. If cameras work alone but fail together, a powered USB hub is the usual fix.
- Do Autodarts cameras need autofocus?
- No, and it is arguably a disadvantage. An Autodarts camera looks at the same fixed board from the same fixed position forever, so autofocus has nothing to gain and can introduce variation by re-hunting when someone walks past or the lighting changes. Focus each camera once by hand against printed text and leave it.
- Do you still need to correct camera distortion in Autodarts?
- Usually not. The platform’s documentation states that from software version 0.24.0 the algorithm accounts for lens distortion itself, so the manual chessboard calibration routine is no longer needed for most setups. Buying a lens with little distortion in the first place is still the better starting point.
Cameras already chosen and tested
Our light ring bundle is £149.99 — ring, printed mounts and cameras, bench-tested together on a real board before dispatch, with free UK delivery and a free remote setup call.
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Mini PC and light ring with cameras. Plugs into any TV or monitor you already have.
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Read next
Camera selection criteria, the community camera comparison, minimum USB and hardware requirements, the USB power table and the version 0.24.0 distortion note are all quoted from the Autodarts platform’s own DIY documentation at autodarts.diy, checked 11 September 2026; specifications and recommendations there change over time, so check before buying. Camera names are the manufacturers’ own. autodarts.store is an independent retailer and is not affiliated with, endorsed by, or operated by autodarts.com or Winmau.